On the road to Tibet – Sichuan
Avant: Les (folles) montagnes sacrées chinoises / Après: L’île Cat Bà au Vietnam
On the road to Tibet ? Eeeet bien non, ou pas tout à fait.
Explication: Le Tibet faisait partie d’une des priorités du voyage, mais certaines choses nous ont fort refroidis: Oui, le prix, mais surtout « à qui ça profite » !?!
=> Nous avons voyagé pendant un mois en Mongolie, l’argent était partagé entre les guides, les chauffeurs et les familles nomades qui nous ont hébergé. Pour le Tibet, actuellement c’est juste le contraire:
– il est impossible d’entrer au Tibet sans guide et sans autorisation.
– on est obligé d’être accompagné d’un guide officiel (pour la plupart des chinois et non pas des tibétains.)
– obligation de se déplacer dans un véhicule de tourisme enregistré avec un chauffeur officiel…
– interdiction de passer une nuit chez l’habitant
– et surtout, si le prix par jour est environ 3 fois plus cher que celui en Mongolie, c’est en grande partie à cause du prix de l’autorisation ! (qui revient donc au gouvernement chinois).
Sentez-vous ce profond sentiment de liberté? Non? …Nous non-plus !
On ne désespère pas pour autant, le Tibet est la plus grande région « chinoise », et certaines parties sont actuellement accessibles sans permis. Ces dernières seraient d’ailleurs parfois plus authentiques encore que les zones sous permis. Depuis Chengdu, nous décidons donc de rejoindre Kangding, l’une des deux « portes du Tibet » situées dans le Sichuan. Le trajet en bus fait théoriquement 6h, en pratique c’est 10 heures de bus que nous aurons enduré avec comme toujours un chauffeur agressif, odieux et dangereux… Décidément, les chauffeurs de bus chinois et nous, ça ne passe pas.
Rouge: Fermé de manière permanente
Orange: Permis et autorisation militaire nécessaire
Jaune et mauve: Un permis nécessaire
Bleu: Zone normalement ouverte mais dont les voyageurs sont en pratique assez fréquemment refoulés.
Et finalement, Vert: Zone actuellement ouverte (Août 2014).
Kangding est à l’origine une ville tibétaine mais on y trouve aujourd’hui majoritairement des Hans et des militaires, beaucoup de militaires. Jusque 2012, la région était interdite aux touristes. En 2014, nous avons pu y accéder sans autorisation particulière mais la ville n’a plus grand chose de tibétain. Buildings, ponts, barrages, nouvelles routes et des kilomètres de nouveaux bâtiments vides…
Nous devons rester à Kangding au moins deux jours afin de nous acclimater à l’altitude (2600m), et nous permettre d’aller ensuite vers notre destination tibétaine: Tagong (3700m). On en profite donc pour faire un peu de rando sur les hauteurs qui entourent Kangding. Quand la météo est bonne (ce qui ne sera pas le cas pour nous), il est entre autre possible de voir le sommet du Minyak Konka (Gongga Shan) qui culmine à 7556m, soit la 2ième plus haute montagne au monde hors Himalaya. Nous profiterons tout de même de la vue du Mont Paoma et d’un court aperçu de la chaîne de +6000m qui se trouve derrière.
Sur le retour, après s’être royalement perdu dans les épais buissons, nous retrouvons finalement le bon chemin, enfin… « un chemin » qui nous mènera au magnifique temple Nanwu, monastère tibétain bouddhiste de l’école Gelugpa.
Tagong, 27 Juillet 2014
Etant maintenant acclimaté à l’altitude, il est temps de poursuivre vers le village de Tagong à 3-4h de route. Il n’existe aucun transport public pour s’y rendre mais en rencontrant un allemand qui parlait anglais et dont la copine qui est chinoise et qui connaît un chinois qui connaît un tibétain qui a une voiture qui … Bref, on a trouvé notre transport vers Tagong pour le lendemain matin !
Le nom « porte du Tibet » de Kangding prend tout son sens durant le trajet vers Tagong. La route commence par grimper jusqu’à 4400m, où nous traversons le col de la chaîne de montagne qui sépare deux mondes: Chine et Tibet.
En chemin, à 4280m nous croisons l’aéroport de Kangding, le 2ième plus haut au monde. Autre élément représentatif des « portes du Tibet », les blocs de béton servant interdire tout véhicule plus grand qu’une voiture ou à interdire les accès lorsque le gouvernement le juge nécessaire, tel que c’était le cas jusqu’en 2012.
Une fois arrivés aux environs de Tagong, le temps s’éclaircit pour laisser apparaître des montagnes qui revendiquent leur culte à des kilomètres…
Nous retrouvons au village une ambiance plus calme. Les néons, la courses aux technologies, les constructions de masses, … Tout ça est resté bloqué de l’autre côté du col.
Le dortoir de notre hostel est de loin le plus beau que l’on ai vu mais on ne s’attarde pas, c’est aussi le dernier jour où nous sommes avec nos amis à 4. Découvrir les temples et monastères des environs fait passer la journée à toute vitesse, c’est l’heure des aurevoirs, Charlotte et Gaël rentrent en Belgique, nous continuons notre périple. « A bientôt les zamis, à dans… 7 mois ! »
Les jours suivants nous partirons découvrir les plateaux tibétains sur 2 roues ! Trouver un loueur de moto à Tagong, ce n’est pas possible… Mais trouver un cuisinier tibétain qui veut bien prêter sa moto contre quelques pièces, ça c’est possible !
Nous voilà donc parti ….
Cette journée sur la route et ses rencontres nous auront ouvert les yeux et nous auront appris différentes choses:
– Des hélicoptères militaires chinois survolent les environs en permanence
– Des moines Tibétains se sont fait fusiller sur la place centrale il y a à peine un an
– Suite à un fête liée au Dalai Lama, le gouvernement chinois a fait couper toute connexion internet dans la région durant + de 4 mois. Internet avait été rétabli peu de temps avant notre arrivée.
– Quand quelqu’un accepte de discuter de l’un de ces sujets, c’est toujours à voix basse
Bref, la réalité est encore bien loin de celle que nous nous imaginions. Malgré cela les locaux gardent leur sourire…
Avant: Les (folles) montagnes sacrées chinoises / Après: L’île Cat Bà au Vietnam
[…] Article précédent: Chengdu et ses pandas ! / Article suivant: Tibet […]
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